The Highlights of Puglia: Alberobello and some Trulli

(I'm behind posting....Actual Date: January 4, 2008)

On Friday morning we woke up early to a cloudy day with weather forecasts predicting rain!


I was disappointed since this was our only day to head to Alberobello and visit the trulli. The trulli are traditional stone structures with conical roofs that can be found in the Valle d'Itria in the Italian region of Puglia (the "heel" of Italy). One of the theories behind the origin of the design is that these structures is that they were built so they could be easily dismantled when property inspectors were in the area. (To read more about this area, check out two of our other posts: Alberobello and the Famous Trulli and Our First Taste of Puglia: Trani and Ostuni).

We grabbed a quick espresso at a cafe in the center of Ostuni before picking up the car for the 40 minute drive to Alberobello, our first stop.


We had a little trouble finding the exact road we were supposed to get on, but in no time we were heading on our way. Within a few minutes we had spotted our first trulli! We pulled off the side of the road and took some pictures.



The trulli are really amazing and the landscape is breathtaking. Even though it was January, was overcast, and was cloudy, the colors were amazing. I am sure that on a sunny spring day with a bright blue sky it would be even more stunning. As we rode along towards Alberobello, passing through the town of Locorotondo, there were more and more trulli!




As luck would have it, just as we pulled into Alberobello it started to rain. We quickly found a parking spot (benefit of traveling during the off season) and headed off to see the highlights of the town, not before stopping at a bakery to get some traditional bread from Puglia: bread stuffed with olives. We took our time wandering the streets but were kind of disappointed with how touristy the town was. I had read how signs throughout Alberobello are written in English, German, and Japanese, but was stilled shocked at the "Disney-esque" aspect of the town. Every few steps we took someone was asking us to come into their store or to see their trulli. After about an hour, we felt we had pretty much exhausted Alberobello. Before leaving, we stopped back at the bakery to pick up another loaf of olive bread...it was that good!





In our guidebook I had read that there was a panoramic overlook where there was a great view of the trulli. We searched but with no luck! We decided to head to our next stop....the city of Martina Franca.

In my exhaustive internet searching for our trip, I had read on the SlowTravel forum (a great website for travel planning!) that the best trulli were on a secondary road between Alberobello and Martina Franca and that in order to find this road and the trulli, you follow the signs pointing to the agriturismo Green Park. This is definitely the road to take! It was very scenic and we got\ to see how spectacular the trulli are! We both definitely agree that a visit to the trulli is a must, but that the experience of seeing the trulli in the countryside is far better than in Alberobello. A car is also a must because without one there is no way to experience it!

Inside of a trulli

We found ourselves in Martina Franca as it began to rain harder! Martina Franca is an amazing baroque city, completely different than Alberobello. It was founded in the 10th century by refugees fleeing the Arab invasion. It only became really prosperous during the 14th century when Philip of Anjou granted the city a tax exemption. (Franchigie being the French word for tax exemptions, hence the name Franca). In addition to wanting to wander the baroque streets of Martina Franca we were looking for capacollo di Martina Franca: a D.O.C. meat that is cured in brine and soaked in mulled wine.

Martina Franca details

Martina Franca's duomo

In the main piazza with the duomo, we found a great store selling all handmade cheese and meats including the capacollo and burata cheese, a specialty of the area. The lady was really nice and helpful and we bought some mozzarella and burata. It was getting close to pausa during which everything shuts down so we decided to head on to Locorotondo, wishing only that we had more time to wander the streets of Martina Franca. Next time!

We easily found a scenic secondary road dotted with rolling hills and trulli. We stopped many times to take some great pictures. We later decided that this was the best route for seeing the trulli, but unfortunately the next day we tried to find this road again and were unsuccessful.

As we were approaching Locorontondo we happened upon three very large (but lean!) pigs that were just hanging out. Oliver went ballistic when he saw the pigs. I have to admit, they were a lot faster that I thought pigs were!


When we got to Locorotondo, it was pretty much deserted; the daily market had just finished and it was pausa. We had wanted to try some of Locorotondo's moscato but no stores were open. Bummer. Next time hopefully! We wandered the streets for awhile looking for a place where we could get a quick bite. There were not a lot of options! We finally found a place and had a quick bowl of pasta. Considering that it was rainy and getting late, we decided to head back to Ostuni.




Once back in Ostuni, we debated going back to the restaurant from the night before, but decided against it seeing we had bought so much cheese in Martina Franca!




After dinner, we wandered around Ostuni's labyrinth streets. As we took turns opera music radiated from speakers. It was a great time, wandering through one of my very favorite cities in all of Italy. I was glad I got to experience it with Reed and Ollie but wished we had more time there!

Tomorrow we leave Puglia and head to see the sassi of Matera in Basilicata. Plus, Oliver gets his first taste of Italian Dog Gangs!

To read more about this fascinating region, check out the New York Times article The Heel is Rising

Easy Tortilla Soup

Tortilla Soup
(adapted from a recipe from Simply Recipes)


I was searching for dinner possibilities today on the internet and came across this one. I made a few changes and the result was great. Not only was it easy to make but it was really tasty too!

6 (6-inch) corn tortillas
1/4 cup oil
1 onion, chopped (can use red or yellow onion or a combination of the two)
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 T cumin (less if you are not as fond of cumin as I am!)
1.5 jalapeño chiles, seeded, veins removed, chopped
4 cups chicken broth
1 can (14.5 oz) diced tomatoes, undrained (preferably fire roasted)
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea salt)
1 pound chicken (boneless and skinless), cooked then shredded
1 ripe medium avocado
1/2 cup shredded Pepper Jack cheese (2 oz)
Chopped green onion
1 lime, cut into wedges

1. The recipe says you should try to use old, dried out tortillas. If not put them on a baking sheet in the oven at 200°F for 10-15 minutes . Cut tortillas into 1/4-inch strips. In 3-quart saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat. Fry strips in oil, 1/3 at a time, until light brown and crisp. Remove from pan; drain on paper towels. Reserve.

2. To cook chicken, place in a pot with 6 cups of water. You can flavor the water with whatever you have on hand. I used some spices (thyme, oregano) and 3 vegetable bullion cubes. Cook chicken until done. Remove chicken and shred after it has slightly cooled. Reserve 4 cups of liquid.

3. In a large pot saute onion, garlic, and jalapenos for 3-4 minutes. Add cumin and mix well. Stir in reserved chicken broth, canned tomatoes, and salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes.

4. Using either a blender, cuisinart, or immersion blender, puree soup. Add chicken to the soup and heat through.

5. To serve garnish with sliced avocado, green onions, pepper jack cheese, corn tortilla strips, and a lime wedge.

California Strawberry Cinnamon Muffins

One thing that is great about living in California right now is the abundance of strawberries. The other day while at the store I got 4 pounds of strawberries for $3.99. What better way to use them up then to make some muffins.


Strawberry Cinnamon Muffins

(adapted from a Cooking Light recipe)

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup plus 3 T vanilla fat-free yogurt
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Cooking spray
2 cups chopped strawberries
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 375º.

2. Lightly spoon flour into dry measuring cups, and level with a knife. Combine flour and the next 4 ingredients (flour through salt) in a large bowl, stirring well with a whisk. Make a well in center of flour mixture.

3. Combine yogurt, butter, milk, and egg in a bowl, stirring well with a whisk. Add yogurt mixture to flour mixture, stirring just until moist.

4. Add chopped strawberries.

5. Place 12 foil cup liners in muffin cups; coat liners with cooking spray. Spoon batter into muffin tin. Sprinkle with ground cinnamon.

6. Bake at 375º for 15 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Remove from pan; place on a wire rack.

A Day at Del Mar Dog Beach

On both Saturday and Sunday Oliver and I headed out to the dog beach in Del Mar which is only 13 miles from Carlsbad. On one portion of the beach, dogs are allowed off leash. The other two miles or so, dogs are allowed but they must be leashed (these rules apply from Labor Day until June). Oliver has become quite the ocean dog!

Proof of a fun day!

Southern California: Trading Pizza, Pasta and Vino for Tacos and Margaritas!

So it looks as though the next stop for me, Reed, and Ollie is going to be Carlsbad, CA, in sunny Southern California! Hopefully by the beginning of May we will be moved in.

The other day when I walked down to the beach from the hotel, I found a beach where dogs are not only allowed but also allowed off leash. A great find as the majority of beaches in Carlsbad are state beaches that do not allow dogs! This is the beach:




I know Mr. O is going to enjoy the walks along the beach!


I'm way behind in posting about the rest of our travels through Southern Italy. Hopefully soon I'll get them all posted in the January archives!

Stay tuned for posts on:

• Alberobello/Martina Franca
  
• Ostuni
• Matera
• Messina
• Siracusa
• Palermo
• Capri
• Napoli
  

We are back in the U.S!

Reed, Ollie, and I arrived in the U.S. two weeks ago today after a less than impressive flight on Lufthansa from Munich to Boston (more to come). We had a great time traveling together, had a few minor mis-haps, and were able to take some great pictures along the way! We hope in the next few days to write some posts about our adventures through Southern Italy. Meanwhile, we are busy planning our next move.....

Back in Sorrento: A ferry later and all the wiser

I awoke early on Friday morning, around 5:30 am, before the alarm had a chance to go off. We were scheduled to arrive in Naples at 7 am, but what do you know, we were early. Sure enough, we were pulling into the port. We hastily got everything together, during a time like this it was hard not to wish that the ferry ride was longer. Longer ride=more sleep! We got off the ferry, passing carabinieri who did not seem to care that Ollie had obviously spent the night in the cabin. It was pitch dark outside and we had no idea of our exact location and where we needed to be in order to catch the hydrofoil to Sorrento. I'm not going to lie, the next half hour was quite stressful. It involved trying to speak with a cop who was all drugged out and insisted on repeating "F-E-R-R-Y" over and over to us in English, being surrounded by more stray dogs, and finally Reed having a cab ride from hell to an ATM machine. By the time we got to the hydrofoil office it was around 7 and we learned the first hydrofoil for Sorrento was at 9:30. It started to rain, which made the long wait even longer.

By 12ish we had arrived back at Casa Mazzola and were glad to take a shower and go to sleep!

Saturday was pretty uneventful. We were still tired and the weather was pretty bad: cold, cloudy, and rainy. Reed and I went down to Sant'Agnello to drop off some laundry and then walked around Sorrento for a bit. We went to dinner at La Rosa for dinner with two other guests who were staying at Casa Mazzola who were from Virginia. Ironically, the guys name was also Reed spelled the same way! What a coincidence!

Tomorrow we head to the mystical island of Capri, braving wind, waves, and storms!