You can find us here now:
http://ashleyreedandoliver.wordpress.com/
July 13, 2008
July 9, 2008
Nobu San Diego: No Bang for our buck!
We headed downtown to eat at Nobu San Diego on Monday night. All three of us opted to try the Omakase, the multi-course chef's tasting menu. We were really excited to try the omakase at Nobu since we had tried and really enjoyed the omakase at Makoto in Washington DC. Needless to say, the omakase at Nobu was not worth the money. Even though the restaurant was fairly empty (it was a Monday night) they seemed to rush us; we were also the only three people sitting at the sushi bar! All of the courses were decent, but overall nothing special like you would assume for the price! The first few courses were the best part of the dinner.
This was our first course and a great way to start out the meal. Definitely one of my favorites, even if it was only a bite!
Course 2: Fatty Tuna Sashimi in a ponzu/soy broth with a Japanese peach
This, while only a bite, was also very good. I wish there had been a little more....Even though it is a tasting menu! The tuna was topped with caviar.
Course 3: 3 piece sashimi platter with traditional Japanese broth
This was one of the other good courses featuring a traditional Japanese broth which was very flowery and three sashimi dishes: red snapper, fluke, and hamachi.
Jaime's favorite was the hamachi which was served with serano chilies:
Reed and I preferred the fluke:
Course 7: Miso Soup with a submerged clam
Course 8: Sushi
We probably had about 6 pieces each of sushi (some we were told to eat with soy sauce and others without). I can't remember all the pieces we had but we had a tuna, a few different white fish sashimi, Uni (or sea urchin which I thought was interesting...but Jaime and Reed loved!) and Unagi (or eel...aka EEK!). I enjoyed the majority of it (Reed's favorite was the white fish pictured below), but somehow I could not get past the "swimming snake" image and enjoy the eel.
Course 10: Dessert
I somehow managed to forget to take a picture of our last course which was a cake with chocolate and cherries along with a frozen cherry slush. Not bad.
With our meals, Jaime and Reed enjoyed a bottle of Nobu Sake and I had a bottle of Nobu Beer.
Course 1: Lobster Ceviche with Avocado
This was our first course and a great way to start out the meal. Definitely one of my favorites, even if it was only a bite!
Course 2: Fatty Tuna Sashimi in a ponzu/soy broth with a Japanese peach
Course 3: 3 piece sashimi platter with traditional Japanese broth
This was one of the other good courses featuring a traditional Japanese broth which was very flowery and three sashimi dishes: red snapper, fluke, and hamachi.Jaime's favorite was the hamachi which was served with serano chilies:
Reed and I preferred the fluke:
Course 4: Hamachi and Salmon Sushi
The presentation on this dish was nice. There were two pieces of hamachi sushi (yellow tail) and one piece of salmon which was wrapped around rape (broccoli rabe). The salmon was excellent and one of the highlights in my opinion. For garnish there was an anchovy crisp and a traditional Japanese herb (can't remember the name).
Course 5: Lobster with Asparagus and Mushrooms
This was our first "warm dish." It was ok. Not my favorite. There definitely was a decent amount of lobster meat; it was however a little difficult to eat with chop sticks! Reed really liked the mushrooms but we all agreed that the sauce was kind of heavy and really dominated the dish.
Course 6: Seared Kobe Beef with Asparagus, Mushrooms, and Yuzu
Another ok, but not great dish. I think we all enjoyed this dish more than the lobster but it was disappointing to see the same asparagus and mushrooms that we had in the previous dish. We were looking for some originality and diversity that seemed to be missing in these dishes. Reed felt that the citrus aspect of the yuzu was a little too much in the dish.
Course 7: Miso Soup with a submerged clam
The miso soup was good and a pleasant break from the two previous courses which were quite heavy, but nothing really spectacular.
Course 8: Sushi
We probably had about 6 pieces each of sushi (some we were told to eat with soy sauce and others without). I can't remember all the pieces we had but we had a tuna, a few different white fish sashimi, Uni (or sea urchin which I thought was interesting...but Jaime and Reed loved!) and Unagi (or eel...aka EEK!). I enjoyed the majority of it (Reed's favorite was the white fish pictured below), but somehow I could not get past the "swimming snake" image and enjoy the eel.
Course 9: Fruity Granita with Orange
Course 10: Dessert
With our meals, Jaime and Reed enjoyed a bottle of Nobu Sake and I had a bottle of Nobu Beer.
Nobu San Diego
207 5th Avenue
San Diego, CA 92101
619.814.4124
207 5th Avenue
San Diego, CA 92101
619.814.4124
July 6, 2008
Highlights of San Diego: Balboa Park and a Padres Game
With my sister in town for a few weeks, we decided to enjoy our proximity to San Diego and head head downtown a few times, once to Balboa Park and once to a Padres game.Balboa Park is one of the country's largest urban parks with 15 museums, gardens, and the San Diego Zoo! The origins of Balboa Park go all the way back to 1868 when 1,400 acres of land on a mesa overlooking the "New Town" (the current downtown) and the Pacific Ocean were set aside. Throughout the early 1900s, there were many plans created for the development and beautification of the park. In 1910, roads were created throughout the park, many of which still exist today.
Balboa Park circa 1910:
(Image from the Balboa Park Organization Website)It was also during 1910 that the park's name was changed from "City Park" to "Balboa Park" after a city-wide naming contest. The name was chosen Harriet Phillips, the winner of the contest, because the Park offered a wide view of the Pacific Ocean and explorer Vasco Nunez de Balboa was the first European to sight the Pacific Ocean.
The Park was the site of the 1915-16 California Exposition which commemorated the opening of the Panama Canal. The exposition created a major impetus for the creation of the Park as it is seen today with a number of the Park's current buildings, including the Spanish-Renaissance style buildings along the El Prado pedestrian walkway being built at this time.
Poster commemorating the 1915 World Fair at Balboa Park:
(Image from the Balboa Park Organization Website)The park is a great place to visit while in San Diego with so many attractions......
.....and one of my very favorite restaurants ever: The Prado at Balboa Park. Check it out next time you are in San Diego!
We were also luck to procure two free tickets to the San Diego Padres/Minnesota Twins game. Too bad the Padres lost!
.....and one of my very favorite restaurants ever: The Prado at Balboa Park. Check it out next time you are in San Diego!
We were also luck to procure two free tickets to the San Diego Padres/Minnesota Twins game. Too bad the Padres lost!
July 2, 2008
July 2, 2008 Palio Winner is......
......Istrice or Porcupine!
The Istrice contrada won the July 2 Palio; the first Palio of 2008. The second and final Palio race will be held on August 16.
We were really hoping to be able to see a Palio race after living in Siena and seeing all of the festivities that occurred months and months after the race day. I can say that after having lived in Siena, the Palio is VERY important to the Sienese: there is even a local TV station devoted almost entirely to replaying Palios of the past. Many a night was spent watching this channel! The Oca (Goose) and the Lecorno (Unicorn) won last years Palios and there were festas, dinners, and decorations throughout the entire fall commemorating their victories!
Decorations in the Oca contrada commemorating their victory in the July 2, 2007 Palio:
Our contrada, the Onda (or Wave), for some reason seemed to be less active than the other contradas. Only on a few occasions did we see the contrada practicing with their drums and flags and only around Christmas time did the contrada hang their flags and light fixtures.
The Onda flag and light fixture decorations:
Although the Palio itself is a simple bareback horse race around Siena's Campo, there is nothing simple about it. Not all the contradas compete during each Palio and there are races prior to the main race which help determine which contradas compete. Scheming and plotting by the contradas occurs all year, culminating in a 90 second race around the Campo! The winning jockey and horse are heroes; the runner-up is the biggest loser of all!
One day we hope to make it to the Palio. Hopefully the Onda will win that year!
The Istrice contrada won the July 2 Palio; the first Palio of 2008. The second and final Palio race will be held on August 16.
We were really hoping to be able to see a Palio race after living in Siena and seeing all of the festivities that occurred months and months after the race day. I can say that after having lived in Siena, the Palio is VERY important to the Sienese: there is even a local TV station devoted almost entirely to replaying Palios of the past. Many a night was spent watching this channel! The Oca (Goose) and the Lecorno (Unicorn) won last years Palios and there were festas, dinners, and decorations throughout the entire fall commemorating their victories!
Decorations in the Oca contrada commemorating their victory in the July 2, 2007 Palio:
Our contrada, the Onda (or Wave), for some reason seemed to be less active than the other contradas. Only on a few occasions did we see the contrada practicing with their drums and flags and only around Christmas time did the contrada hang their flags and light fixtures.
The Onda flag and light fixture decorations:
Although the Palio itself is a simple bareback horse race around Siena's Campo, there is nothing simple about it. Not all the contradas compete during each Palio and there are races prior to the main race which help determine which contradas compete. Scheming and plotting by the contradas occurs all year, culminating in a 90 second race around the Campo! The winning jockey and horse are heroes; the runner-up is the biggest loser of all!
One day we hope to make it to the Palio. Hopefully the Onda will win that year!
May 13, 2008
Matera: The magical city of the sassi
(Actual date....January 5, 2008)
We were on our way to Basilicata, the region in the "instep" of the boot. We were sad to leave Puglia and Ostuni behind but we were excited to see Matera as well.
Basilicata is often described as Italy's last true wilderness. As described in Lonely Planet, Basilicata "is a chaotic landscape of tremendous mountains, dark forested valleys, and villages melded into the rockface...." It is a remote and poor region. We didn't not have too much time in Basilicata so our only stop was Matera, a unique city that is the backdrop for Mel Gibson's movie The Passion of the Christ. Matera is famous for the sassi, or stones of Matera. The sassi are cave dwellings that people lived in for thousands of years, until the 1950s. During the 1600s Matera served as the capital of Basilicata but by the 1950s, half the population lived in the sassi and there was an infant mortality rate of 50 percent. Carlo Levi wrote about the situation in Matera and in the late 1950s and early 1960s, the inhabitants of the sassi were forcibly relocated to government housing. In 1993, Matera's sassi became a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today, many of the sassi are being refurbished and it is possible to stay in one: We did! There are two sassi districts: Sasso Barisano, which is the more modern section that we stayed in; and Sasso Caveoso, the more impoverished section that gives you an idea of what the city was like at one point.
Our guidebooks recommended stopping at a panoramic overlook to get a good overview of the city. The overlook is on the Taranto-Laterza road and you follow signs for the chiese rupestri. The road takes you to the Murgia Plateau, which is separated from Matera by a giant ravine.
The ravine......
Across the ravine are great views of Sassi Caveoso. Despite the gale force winds and freezing cold, we got some great skyline views of Matera.
The many caves in the area....
After seeing Matera from a distance we were even more excited to see the city up close. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at our hotel: B&B Del Casale, a great find (see contact info and the end of the post). We highly recommend this place if you want to stay in a sassi. What a deal for 65 Euros!
After finding a map it was time to explore!
There are a decent number of stray dogs, however, all strays are rounded up one a year and neutered which apparently helps with preventing fights.
Most stores were closed but we enjoyed just wandering around and getting the feel for the area. Reed quickly decided that Matera was his favorite place!
Near the main piazza, we found a great bakery and bought a bread that was loaded with olives! We decided that we would stop there the next day to get some snacks for the long trip to Sicily. We also found a restaurant that looked like it would be good. It turns out it was one of the worst, most expensive meals. Not even worth writing about. What a disappointment!
Even though dinner was horrible, we still had a great time. Heading back to our own sassi, we tried to absorb the atmosphere of this very special place!
For your own sassi experience:
Bed & Breakfast del Casale
Via Casale 43 Sasso Barisano 75100 Matera
Tel: 0835 337304
Cell: 3397362067
Next we head out of mainland Italy and get our first taste of Sicily, not to mention some amazing foccacia!
We were on our way to Basilicata, the region in the "instep" of the boot. We were sad to leave Puglia and Ostuni behind but we were excited to see Matera as well.
Basilicata is often described as Italy's last true wilderness. As described in Lonely Planet, Basilicata "is a chaotic landscape of tremendous mountains, dark forested valleys, and villages melded into the rockface...." It is a remote and poor region. We didn't not have too much time in Basilicata so our only stop was Matera, a unique city that is the backdrop for Mel Gibson's movie The Passion of the Christ. Matera is famous for the sassi, or stones of Matera. The sassi are cave dwellings that people lived in for thousands of years, until the 1950s. During the 1600s Matera served as the capital of Basilicata but by the 1950s, half the population lived in the sassi and there was an infant mortality rate of 50 percent. Carlo Levi wrote about the situation in Matera and in the late 1950s and early 1960s, the inhabitants of the sassi were forcibly relocated to government housing. In 1993, Matera's sassi became a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today, many of the sassi are being refurbished and it is possible to stay in one: We did! There are two sassi districts: Sasso Barisano, which is the more modern section that we stayed in; and Sasso Caveoso, the more impoverished section that gives you an idea of what the city was like at one point.
Our guidebooks recommended stopping at a panoramic overlook to get a good overview of the city. The overlook is on the Taranto-Laterza road and you follow signs for the chiese rupestri. The road takes you to the Murgia Plateau, which is separated from Matera by a giant ravine.
The ravine......
Across the ravine are great views of Sassi Caveoso. Despite the gale force winds and freezing cold, we got some great skyline views of Matera.
The many caves in the area....
After seeing Matera from a distance we were even more excited to see the city up close. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived at our hotel: B&B Del Casale, a great find (see contact info and the end of the post). We highly recommend this place if you want to stay in a sassi. What a deal for 65 Euros!
After finding a map it was time to explore!
There are a decent number of stray dogs, however, all strays are rounded up one a year and neutered which apparently helps with preventing fights.
Most stores were closed but we enjoyed just wandering around and getting the feel for the area. Reed quickly decided that Matera was his favorite place!
Near the main piazza, we found a great bakery and bought a bread that was loaded with olives! We decided that we would stop there the next day to get some snacks for the long trip to Sicily. We also found a restaurant that looked like it would be good. It turns out it was one of the worst, most expensive meals. Not even worth writing about. What a disappointment!
Even though dinner was horrible, we still had a great time. Heading back to our own sassi, we tried to absorb the atmosphere of this very special place!
For your own sassi experience:
Bed & Breakfast del Casale
Via Casale 43 Sasso Barisano 75100 Matera
Tel: 0835 337304
Cell: 3397362067
Next we head out of mainland Italy and get our first taste of Sicily, not to mention some amazing foccacia!
Ostuni Highlights
(Actual date....January 5, 2008)
I love Ostuni! It is by far one of my favorite Italian cities. Before leaving, we walked around the city one last time to get some more pictures. This is one place I can't wait to go back to!
As we were walking around out of nowhere came a pack of 6 or 7 stray dogs. Ollie who is not submissive started barking. We were able to quickly step into a tabacchi and avoid any confrontation. We were not so lucky in Sicily...thats for later.
One of the best things about living in Italy is that we were able to go to places that you might not pick if you were only going for a week or two. Ostuni being one of them. The city itself reminds me a lot of the island of Mykonos in Greece, just more subdued.
I love Ostuni! It is by far one of my favorite Italian cities. Before leaving, we walked around the city one last time to get some more pictures. This is one place I can't wait to go back to!
As we were walking around out of nowhere came a pack of 6 or 7 stray dogs. Ollie who is not submissive started barking. We were able to quickly step into a tabacchi and avoid any confrontation. We were not so lucky in Sicily...thats for later.
One of the best things about living in Italy is that we were able to go to places that you might not pick if you were only going for a week or two. Ostuni being one of them. The city itself reminds me a lot of the island of Mykonos in Greece, just more subdued.
May 12, 2008
The Highlights of Puglia: Alberobello and some Trulli
(I'm behind posting....Actual Date: January 4, 2008)
On Friday morning we woke up early to a cloudy day with weather forecasts predicting rain!
I was disappointed since this was our only day to head to Alberobello and visit the trulli. The trulli are traditional stone structures with conical roofs that can be found in the Valle d'Itria in the Italian region of Puglia (the "heel" of Italy). One of the theories behind the origin of the design is that these structures is that they were built so they could be easily dismantled when property inspectors were in the area. (To read more about this area, check out two of our other posts: Alberobello and the Famous Trulli and Our First Taste of Puglia: Trani and Ostuni).
We grabbed a quick espresso at a cafe in the center of Ostuni before picking up the car for the 40 minute drive to Alberobello, our first stop.
We had a little trouble finding the exact road we were supposed to get on, but in no time we were heading on our way. Within a few minutes we had spotted our first trulli! We pulled off the side of the road and took some pictures.
The trulli are really amazing and the landscape is breathtaking. Even though it was January, was overcast, and was cloudy, the colors were amazing. I am sure that on a sunny spring day with a bright blue sky it would be even more stunning. As we rode along towards Alberobello, passing through the town of Locorotondo, there were more and more trulli!
As luck would have it, just as we pulled into Alberobello it started to rain. We quickly found a parking spot (benefit of traveling during the off season) and headed off to see the highlights of the town, not before stopping at a bakery to get some traditional bread from Puglia: bread stuffed with olives. We took our time wandering the streets but were kind of disappointed with how touristy the town was. I had read how signs throughout Alberobello are written in English, German, and Japanese, but was stilled shocked at the "Disney-esque" aspect of the town. Every few steps we took someone was asking us to come into their store or to see their trulli. After about an hour, we felt we had pretty much exhausted Alberobello. Before leaving, we stopped back at the bakery to pick up another loaf of olive bread...it was that good!
In our guidebook I had read that there was a panoramic overlook where there was a great view of the trulli. We searched but with no luck! We decided to head to our next stop....the city of Martina Franca.
In my exhaustive internet searching for our trip, I had read on the SlowTravel forum (a great website for travel planning!) that the best trulli were on a secondary road between Alberobello and Martina Franca and that in order to find this road and the trulli, you follow the signs pointing to the agriturismo Green Park. This is definitely the road to take! It was very scenic and we got\ to see how spectacular the trulli are! We both definitely agree that a visit to the trulli is a must, but that the experience of seeing the trulli in the countryside is far better than in Alberobello. A car is also a must because without one there is no way to experience it!
Inside of a trulli
We found ourselves in Martina Franca as it began to rain harder! Martina Franca is an amazing baroque city, completely different than Alberobello. It was founded in the 10th century by refugees fleeing the Arab invasion. It only became really prosperous during the 14th century when Philip of Anjou granted the city a tax exemption. (Franchigie being the French word for tax exemptions, hence the name Franca). In addition to wanting to wander the baroque streets of Martina Franca we were looking for capacollo di Martina Franca: a D.O.C. meat that is cured in brine and soaked in mulled wine.
Martina Franca details
Martina Franca's duomo
As we were approaching Locorontondo we happened upon three very large (but lean!) pigs that were just hanging out. Oliver went ballistic when he saw the pigs. I have to admit, they were a lot faster that I thought pigs were!
When we got to Locorotondo, it was pretty much deserted; the daily market had just finished and it was pausa. We had wanted to try some of Locorotondo's moscato but no stores were open. Bummer. Next time hopefully! We wandered the streets for awhile looking for a place where we could get a quick bite. There were not a lot of options! We finally found a place and had a quick bowl of pasta. Considering that it was rainy and getting late, we decided to head back to Ostuni.
Once back in Ostuni, we debated going back to the restaurant from the night before, but decided against it seeing we had bought so much cheese in Martina Franca!
After dinner, we wandered around Ostuni's labyrinth streets. As we took turns opera music radiated from speakers. It was a great time, wandering through one of my very favorite cities in all of Italy. I was glad I got to experience it with Reed and Ollie but wished we had more time there!
Tomorrow we leave Puglia and head to see the sassi of Matera in Basilicata. Plus, Oliver gets his first taste of Italian Dog Gangs!
To read more about this fascinating region, check out the New York Times article The Heel is Rising
On Friday morning we woke up early to a cloudy day with weather forecasts predicting rain!
I was disappointed since this was our only day to head to Alberobello and visit the trulli. The trulli are traditional stone structures with conical roofs that can be found in the Valle d'Itria in the Italian region of Puglia (the "heel" of Italy). One of the theories behind the origin of the design is that these structures is that they were built so they could be easily dismantled when property inspectors were in the area. (To read more about this area, check out two of our other posts: Alberobello and the Famous Trulli and Our First Taste of Puglia: Trani and Ostuni).
We grabbed a quick espresso at a cafe in the center of Ostuni before picking up the car for the 40 minute drive to Alberobello, our first stop.
We had a little trouble finding the exact road we were supposed to get on, but in no time we were heading on our way. Within a few minutes we had spotted our first trulli! We pulled off the side of the road and took some pictures.
The trulli are really amazing and the landscape is breathtaking. Even though it was January, was overcast, and was cloudy, the colors were amazing. I am sure that on a sunny spring day with a bright blue sky it would be even more stunning. As we rode along towards Alberobello, passing through the town of Locorotondo, there were more and more trulli!
As luck would have it, just as we pulled into Alberobello it started to rain. We quickly found a parking spot (benefit of traveling during the off season) and headed off to see the highlights of the town, not before stopping at a bakery to get some traditional bread from Puglia: bread stuffed with olives. We took our time wandering the streets but were kind of disappointed with how touristy the town was. I had read how signs throughout Alberobello are written in English, German, and Japanese, but was stilled shocked at the "Disney-esque" aspect of the town. Every few steps we took someone was asking us to come into their store or to see their trulli. After about an hour, we felt we had pretty much exhausted Alberobello. Before leaving, we stopped back at the bakery to pick up another loaf of olive bread...it was that good!
In our guidebook I had read that there was a panoramic overlook where there was a great view of the trulli. We searched but with no luck! We decided to head to our next stop....the city of Martina Franca.
In my exhaustive internet searching for our trip, I had read on the SlowTravel forum (a great website for travel planning!) that the best trulli were on a secondary road between Alberobello and Martina Franca and that in order to find this road and the trulli, you follow the signs pointing to the agriturismo Green Park. This is definitely the road to take! It was very scenic and we got\ to see how spectacular the trulli are! We both definitely agree that a visit to the trulli is a must, but that the experience of seeing the trulli in the countryside is far better than in Alberobello. A car is also a must because without one there is no way to experience it!
Inside of a trulli
We found ourselves in Martina Franca as it began to rain harder! Martina Franca is an amazing baroque city, completely different than Alberobello. It was founded in the 10th century by refugees fleeing the Arab invasion. It only became really prosperous during the 14th century when Philip of Anjou granted the city a tax exemption. (Franchigie being the French word for tax exemptions, hence the name Franca). In addition to wanting to wander the baroque streets of Martina Franca we were looking for capacollo di Martina Franca: a D.O.C. meat that is cured in brine and soaked in mulled wine.
Martina Franca details
Martina Franca's duomoIn the main piazza with the duomo, we found a great store selling all handmade cheese and meats including the capacollo and burata cheese, a specialty of the area. The lady was really nice and helpful and we bought some mozzarella and burata. It was getting close to pausa during which everything shuts down so we decided to head on to Locorotondo, wishing only that we had more time to wander the streets of Martina Franca. Next time!
We easily found a scenic secondary road dotted with rolling hills and trulli. We stopped many times to take some great pictures. We later decided that this was the best route for seeing the trulli, but unfortunately the next day we tried to find this road again and were unsuccessful.
We easily found a scenic secondary road dotted with rolling hills and trulli. We stopped many times to take some great pictures. We later decided that this was the best route for seeing the trulli, but unfortunately the next day we tried to find this road again and were unsuccessful.
As we were approaching Locorontondo we happened upon three very large (but lean!) pigs that were just hanging out. Oliver went ballistic when he saw the pigs. I have to admit, they were a lot faster that I thought pigs were!
When we got to Locorotondo, it was pretty much deserted; the daily market had just finished and it was pausa. We had wanted to try some of Locorotondo's moscato but no stores were open. Bummer. Next time hopefully! We wandered the streets for awhile looking for a place where we could get a quick bite. There were not a lot of options! We finally found a place and had a quick bowl of pasta. Considering that it was rainy and getting late, we decided to head back to Ostuni.
Once back in Ostuni, we debated going back to the restaurant from the night before, but decided against it seeing we had bought so much cheese in Martina Franca!
After dinner, we wandered around Ostuni's labyrinth streets. As we took turns opera music radiated from speakers. It was a great time, wandering through one of my very favorite cities in all of Italy. I was glad I got to experience it with Reed and Ollie but wished we had more time there!
Tomorrow we leave Puglia and head to see the sassi of Matera in Basilicata. Plus, Oliver gets his first taste of Italian Dog Gangs!
To read more about this fascinating region, check out the New York Times article The Heel is Rising
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
